Artisans de Genève and the pursuit of uniqueness

For many watch enthusiasts, being able to purchase a sports model from brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe from a local (or any) retailer is a dream come true. Years-long waiting lists, limited availability, and a demand that far exceeds production numbers are all factors that make the GMT Master II “Pepsi” and Nautilus watches that many can only dream of wearing.

For some, however, a coveted watch from one of the world’s most renowned brands is not enough. They may be hard to come by over the counter, but with thousands and tens of thousands of pieces, neither the Daytona, GMT-Master, nor Nautilus are rare in the true sense of the word – at least if you want something truly special.

The search for the unique

Modifying – or modding – your possessions, including your watches, is not really uncommon. We pretty much all do it. From the little things like changing the rims on your car or changing the strap on your watch, to those who buy a brand new body kit from Japan (or rebuild your Seiko watch to look like a Royal Oak). It’s about creating something different and standing out from the crowd – or maybe just as a spice for your own satisfaction.

For some, boyishness turns into a profession. Companies like Brabus and RUF have long since become established and recognized names in the automotive industry, known for squeezing even more power out of the engine – and further sharpening the already sporty look of cars from Mercedes and Porsche. The results are impressive, with discreet applause even from the car manufacturers themselves, at least in the unofficial arena.

In the watch world, however, the modification of expensive watches has long been met with a certain skepticism from discerning enthusiasts. The reasons have probably been complex, but high prices and questionable quality have definitely been a recurring theme from some players. As has been stubborn resistance from the watch brands themselves, but with companies like Bamford – and their eventual official collaboration with several major players like Zenith and TAG Heuer – this also seems to be slowly but surely changing.

ADVERTISEMENT

Other brands have made varying levels of modification, the special, an important part of their own portfolio and under their own roof. Either by launching watches in extremely low editions, like Richard Mille, or by offering it as an extra service for good customers. Whether through engravings, enameling, adding a logo or other major and minor personalizations.

Artisans of Geneva

Among the companies that have managed to make a name for themselves in the field of high-quality modification is the Swiss Artisans de Genève. For more than fifteen years, they have offered the personalization of watches, where both the exterior and interior have undergone major changes according to the customer’s specific wishes. All in order to turn the recognizable and ordinary into something that reflects the customer.

In their workshop in the Swiss watch capital, it is definitely not a question of simple color changes on the bezel and dial, but rather a complete modification carried out by highly qualified professionals. Either as unique editions in one copy, or as a series in a highly limited edition, based on the customer’s needs and wishes.

ADVERTISEMENT

Atelier de Genève does not have a partnership with any of the major brands, and emphasizes that they neither source watches from nor are officially associated with any of them. Here, it is the customers themselves who bring a basic model to the company, with their wishes and needs for modification.

With projects where you can find names like Gianluigi Buffon, John McEnroe, Lenny Kravitz and Adam Levine on the client list, it really shows that the company has managed to build a reputation as a highly serious player, delivering modifications of a correspondingly high class, throughout its lifetime.

With their limited production and high price range, the watches are therefore very rare to see in the open – not least here at home in Norway.

Oslo-based Time Watches has specialized in buying and selling high-end watches for several years. When I learned that the second-hand dealer had no less than four different Artisans de Genève watches in stock, my curiosity was piqued enough to take a closer look.

“Not your average Rolex”

Looking at Artisans de Genève’s own project list, there is little doubt that Rolex models account for the lion’s share of the modification jobs, even though the company itself emphasizes that they can work on any make or model. With its enormous popularity and – relatively – large production and affordable price, it is nevertheless understandable that Rolex seems to be the modding industry’s answer to the Porsche 911.

Considering its popularity, not least here in Norway, it is therefore not entirely unexpected that all four watches that Time Watches has managed to acquire are from Rolex. However, they are all very different, impressive in their own way and at the same time show the breadth of possibilities offered by Artisans de Genève.

What all four have in common is access to the movement through a new caseback, with the “One Hand” GiGi also offering full access from the dial side. Also common are a large number of changes, of greater or lesser degree, to the finish and/or skeletonisation, as well as modifications to the mechanics. This means details such as a bezel with handmade clous de Paris on the GiGi, extensive use of blue aventurine on both the dial, bezel and rotor on the Sea Shepherd and a rotor in 24 carat gold on the GMT World Traveller.

Perhaps most striking of all is the Submariner Sea Shepherd, which borrows the Cellini Moonphase movement for its unique moon phase display, positioned in the center of the dial, changing the character of the watch almost beyond recognition.

While the three mentioned above are modern, Daytona Shades Of Blue offers a completely different expression, with a lovely classic color that appears vintage in all its glory. Here, the order has probably been a feeling of vintage, racing and elegance, but in a color that has never been part of the shelf collection.

In addition to being able to change pretty much everything (including cases, materials, crown, bezel, movement, finish, hands and much more), a comprehensive package is created that includes a box of the exclusive kind. The result is a complete transformation of something that was once standard, changed into something that can definitely not be described as off-the-shelf anymore.

Challenging the usual

For some, the search for the unique and special will always be a driving force. When a standard 911 is no longer exciting, perhaps the hunt for a GT3 or a completely unique and custom-built GT2 begins. The mechanisms are the same in watches, where many choose to turn their attention to exclusive independents or personalization when the standard models no longer appeal.

The trend of modification is therefore guaranteed to be here to stay – and will probably increase in scope in the years to come. It is all about emotions, personality and enthusiasm, in a watch world that often takes itself too seriously. Because basically, all these mechanical watches we strap around our wrists are both unimportant and unnecessary in the grand scheme of things.

It’s perhaps no wonder that many people are looking for something that can bring out a smile and truly deliver a sense of well-being.